JGTC Mechanics Shed

[BH-21]

JGTC​

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Down in the pit area is the where all the JGTC mechanics hangout. Some of them talk shop from time to time and car setups.

 

[BH-21]

Toyota Castrol Tom's Supra (JGTC) ('00)

Parts to fit:
Stiffness
Refresher Plan

Brake Controller
Brakes: 2 / 1 (R4 or less) 1/1 (R5)

Suspension
Spring Rate: 6.2 / 5.2
Ride Height: 45 / 57
Bound: 2 / 2
Rebound: 4 / 4
Camber: 5.0 / 2.0
Toe: 0 / 2
Stabilizers: 4 / 3

Transmission
Gear Ratios
1st: 3.860
2nd: 2.430
3rd: 1.690
4th: 1.300
5th: 1.040
6th: 0.860
Final Gear: 3.530
Autoset 19

Downforce
Front 50
Rear 70

LSD
Rear
Initial: 16
Acceleration: 6
Deceleration: 5

Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0

 

[one inch man]

Try something more like this (useless for MR cars):

Brake Controller
Brakes: never needed that.

Suspension
Spring Rate: 9.5 / 10.0
Ride Height: 65 / 65
Bound: 3 / 3
Rebound: 8 / 7
Camber: 3.0 / 2.5
Toe: 0 / 0
Stabilizers: 4 / 4

I left the standard settings for the individual gears and only adjusted the auto settings from race to race.

Downforce - always full downforce

LSD
Rear
Initial: 5
Acceleration: 45
Deceleration: 15

Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0

This should enable you to brake very late and accelerate fairly early. The car should now understeer when you're off the throttle after breaking into a corner, but turn further into the corner/become neutral when applying the accelerator.
Furthermore early shifting and not going below third gear may shave some more tenths.

 

[Korza]

Try setting the toe to -0.2 on the front and 0.1 on the rear. It will help with reducing understeer while keeping straight line stability.

 

[Smallhorses]

Here's my setup (if one can call random number fiddling a setup! ):

Nissan Loctite Zexel GT-R (JGTC) '00

Oil Changed (Gave 500HP initially on garage screen, by the end of the races with 2000.3 miles on the car, oil change only restores the car to 495HP, meaning 5 Horses have escaped permanently!)
Rigidity Refresh

Brake Controller
Brakes: 8 / 10

Suspension
Spring Rate: 14.1 / 13.8
Ride Height: 54 / 55
Bound: 4 / 6
Rebound: 4 / 6
Camber: 2.0 / 2.5
Toe: 0 / -1
Stabilizers: 3 / 5

Transmission (used tranny trick)
Gear Ratios
1st: 2.983
2nd: 2.136
3rd: 1.617
4th: 1.279
5th: 1.056
6th: 0.911
Final Gear: 3.250 (Adjust final gear for individual tracks)
Autoset 1 (Don't touch this)

Downforce
Front 50
Rear 70

LSD
Rear
Initial: 14
Acceleration: 22
Deceleration: 22

Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0

Anyway, that's what worked for me, and was basically tuned to try and even out the tyrewear between front and rear.

 

[one inch man]

I'd say you should try my settings for the LSD ans camber. Based on my experience this should dramatically improve turn-in and manoeuvrability while accelearting out of corners.

 

[Korza]

Here's my setup (if one can call random number fiddling a setup! ):

Nissan Loctite Zexel GT-R (JGTC) '00

Oil Changed (Gave 500HP initially on garage screen, by the end of the races with 2000.3 miles on the car, oil change only restores the car to 495HP, meaning 5 Horses have escaped permanently!)
Rigidity Refresh

Brake Controller
Brakes: 8 / 10

Suspension
Spring Rate: 14.1 / 13.8
Ride Height: 54 / 55
Bound: 4 / 6
Rebound: 4 / 6
Camber: 2.0 / 2.5
Toe: 0 / -1
Stabilizers: 3 / 5

Transmission (used tranny trick)
Gear Ratios
1st: 2.983
2nd: 2.136
3rd: 1.617
4th: 1.279
5th: 1.056
6th: 0.911
Final Gear: 3.250 (Adjust final gear for individual tracks)
Autoset 1 (Don't touch this)

Downforce
Front 50
Rear 70

LSD
Rear
Initial: 14
Acceleration: 22
Deceleration: 22

Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0

Anyway, that's what worked for me, and was basically tuned to try and even out the tyrewear between front and rear.

Its interesting to see that you set your car up towards understeer....

 

[Smallhorses]

Its interesting to see that you set your car up towards understeer....

I do whatever best suits my driving style, and especially in Endurance races, even tyre-wear as it's pointless having a 0.5s faster setup per lap that costs ultimately costs you 2 or 3 extra stops per race, as you'll lose more in pit time than you can gain on-track. The settings I've listed are whatever was left on the car after Suzuka 1000km.

I'm no settings wizard, having driven probably 90% of my 100,000 A-spec points (in a single gamesave) in unmodified, stock cars, and therefore not adept at tuning cars, but highly adept at tuning my driving style to a given car. I'm just curious though, other than the harder front suspension and reduced front camber, what parameters highlight to you a propensity for understeer?

I have to add that I've never been, nor intend to be, any kind of drifter and I hate abundant oversteer with a passion so I tend, if possible, to tune abundant oversteer out of a car, and given my endurance experience I tend to know what works in terms of maximising on-track time, and minimising in-pit time. That said there's a fine line to tread in terms of losing time on harder-than-necessary tyres, and running softer, but less durable tyres and making up the time lost in pitting more frequently.

 

[SkengD]

why do you guys have your ride height so high ?

ive never made the car higher , its usually lower

 

[one inch man]

why do you guys have your ride height so high ?

ive never made the car higher , its usually lower

On rough tracks the car starts bouncing, if set too low.

@Smallhorses: The main factor should be the LSD. How long were you able to stay out in the Grand Valley race? I managed 13 laps in average.

 

[Smallhorses]

why do you guys have your ride height so high ?

ive never made the car higher , its usually lower

Mine is lower than defaults, but one has to be careful in "slamming" every car to it's lowest height settings or you'll bottom-out the car on either it's belly or the tyre-wells onto the tyres, all of which will slow you down.
Oh, and while you're at it, has an AUP which you're expected to learn and follow in every post you make here. Your post is clearly lacking in the Capital letters and apostrophes area, so please improve this for next time.

 

[Korza]

I do whatever best suits my driving style, and especially in Endurance races, even tyre-wear as it's pointless having a 0.5s faster setup per lap that costs ultimately costs you 2 or 3 extra stops per race, as you'll lose more in pit time than you can gain on-track. The settings I've listed are whatever was left on the car after Suzuka 1000km.

I'm no settings wizard, having driven probably 90% of my 100,000 A-spec points (in a single gamesave) in unmodified, stock cars, and therefore not adept at tuning cars, but highly adept at tuning my driving style to a given car. I'm just curious though, other than the harder front suspension and reduced front camber, what parameters highlight to you a propensity for understeer?

I have to add that I've never been, nor intend to be, any kind of drifter and I hate abundant oversteer with a passion so I tend, if possible, to tune abundant oversteer out of a car, and given my endurance experience I tend to know what works in terms of maximising on-track time, and minimising in-pit time. That said there's a fine line to tread in terms of losing time on harder-than-necessary tyres, and running softer, but less durable tyres and making up the time lost in pitting more frequently.

Having the rear ride height higher than the front shifts the towards the rear, possibly increasing the chance of understeer. Also, the way you tune your LSD is interesting. I tend to keep it either stock or really low i.e. 8, 15, 10.