Fanatec and PS4 Troubleshooting/SettingsPS4 

  • Thread starter Smoothherb
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SmoothHerb
First here is a litte troubleshooting. (Sorry for my english)

If your wheel don´t work on the PS4 go to fanatec.com and get the Firmware update for your wheel. Follow the instrukions coming with the file.

Connect your wheel to your ps4, turn it on and power your PS4 and launch the game.
Once in the game turn off the controller! Now you have full acess to the wheel.

Problems with the Wheel:

1. Deadzone: reduce deadzone ingame to 0 increase the steering sensitivity to max

2. R2 L2 buttons are the pedals.


Settings Wheel:

These Settings are from Bike 77 on the PCgame forum:
On the wheel:
Sen 900
Ff 100
Sho 100
Dri off
abs 024
Lin 000
Dea 000
Spr off
dpr off

The game settings are as follow:
In menu controls:
Deadzone 0
Steering sens 100
Throttle deadz 0
Steering sens 60
Brake deadzone 0
Brake sens 80
Speed sens 0
Controller filtering 100
Ff 100
Controller input mode 3
and under advanced everything off

Now comes the part that really makes a diffrence on how the cars handle, for this you habe to go to the tuning setup in a race:
go to force feedback using r1:
Master scale 180
Fx scale 148.00
Fy scale 150.00
Fz scale 142.00
And then the last setting
arm angle -199.9

Q

I have the bet results with FFB in game options under 55%


Bugs:

  • Wheel konfig won't save!!!!
  • Huge Deadzone (even when sensitivity is at 100%)
  • Controller don't work with the wheel
  • Pitcrew only talks about Speaker (annoying when using Headphones)
  • When under 10 kmh the wheel spin extreme fast to one side.
I also would like to now what your settings are on the wheel and on the game options.

Excluding that of course, that is already know that is needed a fix.

Another info:
- USB keyboard work on PS4 at same time as the wheel, only some buttons but we can use the digital and the basic buttons (didn't find the R1 ... etc, buttons), if we could use all the keys :)
- on the wheel the select button is L4 (used that for the clutch), the L2 / R2 buttons can be used to assign function, like reset car on R2, but on the menus we need to press the pedals for the L2/R2.

Greetings SmoothHerb
 
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Hi there,

I'm PS4 obviously, with a Fanatec CSR wheel w/CSR Elite pedals. Boy oh boy do I have some issues. I've been noting them down on a piece of paper as I play.

Ok, here we go...
  • Game will not recognise the clutch pedal.
  • Unless you assign a button to the clutch, when you go out on track, the clutch will be engaged (even with auto clutch turned on) so you go nowhere.
  • If I calibrate the pedals, I loose L2 and R2 functionality in menus, which is kind of crucial for navigating around.
  • (Not sure if this one is wheel specific) - Some of the sliders behave very weird. Some go up in increments of 1, some in 5, and some in 10. Steering config goes up in increments of 5, which is really annoying (who wants a deadzone of either 0 or 5). The difficulty slider only goes up in increments of 10! Whats the point of having difficulty between 0 - 100. Just make it 0 - 10 if its going to be like that?
  • How the heck do you change your car colour with a wheel?
  • Once in a session, how do you scroll the leaderboard with a wheel (on a controller, it seems to be the right thumbstick).
  • Below about 3km/h, or when stationary, the FFB in the wheel seems to invert. If you turn it slightly from center, it will CRANK to one side with a tonne of force (when this happened, I wasn't expecting it and it took my thumb with it. I seriously thought I'd broken my thumb. It went with such force). When you pull the wheel back to center and past center in the other direction, it will crank full lock to that direction too. Like I said, its like the FFB becomes inverted (it should be noted I have 0 deadzone. Not sure if having a deadzone of 1 fixes this issue, but I HATE deadzones).
Does anyone know anywhere 'official' where the devs might see these issues?

For being created by '80,000 people', wheel support (at least Fanatec) seems incredibly sloppy. Its a shame these are the issues I've picked up in just the first half an hour of gameplay and all the people who helped develop the game over the past 3 or so years never picked these things up.
 
Ok, The Deadzone: go to wheelsetting sen. To 360. Ingame controls, configuration and set controllertype to 3. Then reduce the deadzone to 0.
This is not the ideal solution but it makes the game playable.

Also check your FF setting ingame and on the wheel and reduce it! Its set to 100% and this seems to case problems.

Edit:
Check out post 1
Dadzone: max steering sensitivity to max
 
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Here are 3 of the main problems:
1. First and most important is that we can't use the dualshock while the wheel is recognised by the game. Even if I turn the wheel off the controller won't work. This Leeds into the second problem:
2. I can't use L2 and R2 on the wheel that means I can't tune the car nor cN I use most options.
3. The wheelsettings don't save ingame, so you have to set the settings every time you reboot the game.
 
Here's my problem;

I just bought a Fanatec wheel...& then read this thread!


;)


Hopefully we can work out these issues together. There are always gonna be teething problems with an ambitious title like P CARS.


👍
 
Can't find the option either, think he talks about another wheel!
Please keep in mind that the game options will change if you use certain wheels.

I knew that things where not 100% polished at the start, lets all be thankfull that we can use the fanatec wheels.
 
Normally it should be under Options > Controller > Adjust FFB (in the lower right corner)

but it looks like this isn't available with Fanatec wheels on consoles.
:( :( :( :( Deadzone is killing my life.i don't even have the option fo calibration.
 
Hi Guys - Anyway to fix this issue of what seems like the clutch is stuck on? I can't seem to 'assign' to another button....or the actual clutch as it doesn't respond when you do the calibration - Once in game it just sounds like it's revving its guts out and going absolutely nowhere - Any help would be appreciated.
 
Hi Guys - Anyway to fix this issue of what seems like the clutch is stuck on? I can't seem to 'assign' to another button....or the actual clutch as it doesn't respond when you do the calibration - Once in game it just sounds like it's revving its guts out and going absolutely nowhere - Any help would be appreciated.

This worked for me (hopefully it'll work for you), but stay away from calibrating your pedals. They should work find without calibrating them anyway. So, what I'd do if I were you, reboot the game, reset your wheel settings in the 'controls' section (to start from scratch) but don't calibrate your pedals. As soon as you calibrate your pedals, you lose the ability to use the pedals as L2 and R2. Also, from what I can see, calibrating your pedals also seems to create some kind of bind conflict where it thinks your putting in multiple inputs.

So reset you wheel settings, go into button config, and you should be able to assign a button to the clutch. Once you bind a button to the clutch, the engaged clutch in game goes away.
 
l65po.jpg
 
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Okay, so the deadzone is a little better now with the settings from the top of the page - thanks for that.

However, I can't navigate the menu's easily using my Fanatec PWTS, for example I can't change the suspension tuning on the car, it just sits there with no control. The cursor doesn't seem to respond at all.
Is there a way to get the DS4 to work along side the wheel for such things?
 
This worked for me (hopefully it'll work for you), but stay away from calibrating your pedals. They should work find without calibrating them anyway. So, what I'd do if I were you, reboot the game, reset your wheel settings in the 'controls' section (to start from scratch) but don't calibrate your pedals. As soon as you calibrate your pedals, you lose the ability to use the pedals as L2 and R2. Also, from what I can see, calibrating your pedals also seems to create some kind of bind conflict where it thinks your putting in multiple inputs.

So reset you wheel settings, go into button config, and you should be able to assign a button to the clutch. Once you bind a button to the clutch, the engaged clutch in game goes away.

Thanks heaps mate - Works...finally! Cheers
 
This must be a PS4 specific problem (maybe related to the whole wheel incompatibility story). I'm with a CSR on a PC, made sure i had the latest drivers, wheel is set at 900 degrees and i did the FFB and pedal test in the Fanatec wheel property page, then proceeded to do the ingame calibration before i started and everything works fine.

For people on PS4, have you hooked your CSR or GT3 onto your PC and checked this before you started playing?
 
This must be a PS4 specific problem (maybe related to the whole wheel incompatibility story). I'm with a CSR on a PC, made sure i had the latest drivers, wheel is set at 900 degrees and i did the FFB and pedal test in the Fanatec wheel property page, then proceeded to do the ingame calibration before i started and everything works fine.

For people on PS4, have you hooked your CSR or GT3 onto your PC and checked this before you started playing?

What pedals set are you using?
Also on PC i think there are 2 settings to choose, CSR with pedals or CSR with independent pedals.

I don't have the game for PC, but we only can test the wheel on PC to see if there is an issue with the wheel. And my PS4 game only later today will get it.
 
What pedals set are you using?
Also on PC i think there are 2 settings to choose, CSR with pedals or CSR with independent pedals.

I don't have the game for PC, but we only can test the wheel on PC to see if there is an issue with the wheel. And my PS4 game only later today will get it.
The basic CSR pedals. Just to make sure that you all try the PC first to properly configure your wheels, and check if your drivers and firmware are up to date + if all is working fine through the Fanatec property icon on your desktop (select properties in the Fanatec driver to access the configuration in case you didn't know).

Also i don't know exactly but on PS4 you need to use the USb mode no? (not PS mode).

If all is fine there and then you still have troubles, you can blame the game or the PS4 ;)
 
The basic CSR pedals. Just to make sure that you all try the PC first to properly configure your wheels, and check if your drivers and firmware are up to date + if all is working fine through the Fanatec property icon on your desktop (select properties in the Fanatec driver to access the configuration in case you didn't know).

If all is fine there and then you still have troubles, you can blame the game then (or the PS4) ;)

I have the same set.
The firmware is 756 (last), the wheel works fine on PS3 and there are more than 3 persons with this issue, so I don't think that all are defect wheels the problem is within the game / fanatec drivers.

Fanatec says the problem is within the game to contact SMS. I tested the wheel in PC with build 831 about 1 month ago and the clutch issue is also present in that build.
Note: 831 build is Oct 2014, very old.
 
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Also having the clutch issue here (CSR wheel +clubsport pedals, latest firmware) cant assign clutch to actual clutch - just assigned it to a button then, will play with auto clutch and see if I come across any other issues
 
I have the same set.
The firmware is 756 (last), the wheel works fine on PS3 and there are more than 3 persons with this issue, so I don't think that all are defect wheels the problem is within the game / fanatec drivers.

Fanatec says the problem is within the game to contact SMS. I tested the wheel in PC with build 831 about 1 month ago and the clutch issue is also present in that build.
Note: 831 build is Oct 2014, very old.
Ok that sucks. My point was that some people might experience their wheels not working, because of the things i mentioned above and blame it on the game. Trust me i've been there :D
 
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