Porsche electric cars losing power when using a steering wheel (Logitech pro) anyone else - Solved, it's the transducer/basskicker causing it.

Famine
If we could see the actual pedal inputs it'd be more useful. Did you save the replay of this race so we can see it again in flat-o-vision with the full HUD?
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I've not played it in 2d. I need to do that as a test. I'll record that one when I do.

Someone earlier commented that I wasnt pushing the pedal enough in my video but my foot is flat to the floor when the power loss happens. Then I try various amounts of pushing the accelerator and nothing works but as soon as I press accelerator on the pad everything works fine.

I'm gonna try mapping one of my wheel paddles to accelerator too and see if that works when the pedals stop.
 
scottinwales
I've not played it in 2d. I need to do that as a test. I'll record that one when I do.
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That's a separate task; if you saved the replay of this race you can play it back on a regular screen and we could see the inputs with a full HUD.

You can also check your pedal calibration in the main Options menu.
 
Yeh the links up near the start
Famine
That's a separate task; if you saved the replay of this race you can play it back on a regular screen and we could see the inputs with a full HUD.

You can also check your pedal calibration in the main Options menu.
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Yeah the link is up near the start of this topic.
 
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scottinwales
I've got a shifter. Not in use.
No handbrake.
Clutch is clutch.
It's not a case of something else being pressed as I even went to the effort of getting out the seat and just pushing the accelerator pedal with my hand.

It's the Logitech DD Pro pedals.
Sounds like they must be at fault but why they only do it with these 2 cars is beyond me.
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Just wanted to rule out the other stuff. Sounds like it is an issue with the brake, maybe it's getting stuck occasionally at 100.... Or the pedal calibration is off. Go to my options, pedal and wheel calibration. On that first screen, trying pushing your brakes several times and see if it gets stuck at all. Also go to the pedal calibration screen and make a post with what it is saying for the brake pedal minimum and maximum. If you do want to adjust it,set the minimum to what you are comfortable with, I think I use 7%.... Then set your highest level that you feel comfortable with for the full brake. I use 100% because I like it set that way
 
Yes No
Just wanted to rule out the other stuff. Sounds like it is an issue with the brake, maybe it's getting stuck occasionally at 100.... Or the pedal calibration is off. Go to my options, pedal and wheel calibration. On that first screen, trying pushing your brakes several times and see if it gets stuck at all. Also go to the pedal calibration screen and make a post with what it is saying for the brake pedal minimum and maximum. If you do want to adjust it,set the minimum to what you are comfortable with, I think I use 7%.... Then set your highest level that you feel comfortable with for the full brake. I use 100% because I like it set that way
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Nah it's not getting stuck.
There's no way I'm sat there for a few minutes hitting brake and accelerator and it's not unsticking.
Plus it only sticking when I use an electric Porsche is too coincidental.

However I didn't know gt7 had calibration so that's great advice I'll definitely use thanks.
 
scottinwales
Yeh the links up near the start

Yeah the link is up near the start of this topic.
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That's the recording of the VR gameplay.

I'm asking if you saved the replay in your game so that you can go back and watch it again on a regular screen and record that so that we can see the whole thing in regular screen mode showing the full HUD and actually look directly at the pedal inputs on the full HUD.
 
Famine
That's the recording of the VR gameplay.

I'm asking if you saved the replay in your game so that you can go back and watch it again on a regular screen and record that so that we can see the whole thing in regular screen mode showing the full HUD and actually look directly at the pedal inputs on the full HUD.
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Sorry my bad.
No I didn't.

I'll do that on my next test when it happens.
I didn't realise you could see more HUD on the replay than the actual race.
 
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scottinwales
I didn't realise you could see more HUD on the replay than the actual race.
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VR reduces the elements on the HUD compared to 2d display.
With a replay file of GT7 one can use whatever view is prefered while also including input (which you would see in 2d yourself).
1710249514668.png


A replay (or a 2d video) would allow to see these specific inputs, so propably even though you press your pedal to the floor, the bar would show no input, or the brake for whatever reason would also apply 100%.

Either way it would hint at something wrong with the pedals.
 
Meythia
VR reduces the elements on the HUD compared to 2d display.
With a replay file of GT7 one can use whatever view is prefered while also including input (which you would see in 2d yourself).
View attachment 1336300

A replay (or a 2d video) would allow to see these specific inputs, so propably even though you press your pedal to the floor, the bar would show no input, or the brake for whatever reason would also apply 100%.

Either way it would hint at something wrong with the pedals.
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Great advice. Thank you.
I'll do that.
On the replay I have to swap to inside car view and capture like I did the race yeh?
 
scottinwales
Great advice. Thank you.
I'll do that.
On the replay I have to swap to inside car view and capture like I did the race yeh?
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After you finish or quit the race there is a menü to "save replay" which will create a replay-file and store it on the GT-servers so everyone can access it. (Better have a look with simply starting a race and exiting it after a few seconds so you can familiarize yourself of where to find it, I cant explain it from memory and dont have my game to start and look myself right now).
How you are driving has no impact on this file, as it will only save your inputs and by that "recreate" how the race has played out. It doesnt rely on your view, or where you were looking or anything else.
 
Meythia
After you finish or quit the race there is a menü to "save replay" which will create a replay-file and store it on the GT-servers so everyone can access it.
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You'd need to also Share the replay file in order to do that. Simply saving it makes a local copy only - but that'd be enough to record from.


All you'd need to do to see the full HUD is enable the full HUD in the replay. The view doesn't matter.
 
Meythia
After you finish or quit the race there is a menü to "save replay" which will create a replay-file and store it on the GT-servers so everyone can access it. (Better have a look with simply starting a race and exiting it after a few seconds so you can familiarize yourself of where to find it, I cant explain it from memory and dont have my game to start and look myself right now).
How you are driving has no impact on this file, as it will only save your inputs and by that "recreate" how the race has played out. It doesnt rely on your view, or where you were looking or anything else.
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Great stuff. Thanks. I'll suss that out then.

Famine
You'd need to also Share the replay file in order to do that. Simply saving it make a local copy only.


All you'd need to do to see the full HUD is enable the full HUD in the replay. The view doesn't matter.
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Erm, not sure I follow what you mean by enable full hud in replay?
Is it just an option thats on screen?
 
scottinwales
Erm, not sure I follow what you mean by enable full hud in replay?
Is it just an option thats on screen?
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Yes.

Specifically you bring the controls up during the replay with the circle button, then select Replay Options, Display Race Info -> Display All
 
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Had a quick test using the DualSense controller, the electric cars don’t give you any power while the brakes are pressed, even if only slightly. So what I guess is happening is that your pedal case is flexing slightly (I guess it’s a plastic casing?), causing a minimal brake input to be registered, and that kills your power.
 
eran0004
Had a quick test using the DualSense controller, the electric cars don’t give you any power while the brakes are pressed, even if only slightly. So what I guess is happening is that your pedal case is flexing slightly (I guess it’s a plastic casing?), causing a minimal brake input to be registered, and that kills your power.
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That's a good shout. They're the pro pedals so all metal I think. When it happens next I'll try and give the brake a good stamp and see if there is any release. Thanks

--edit

Actually if the brake pedal is preventing the acceleration then accelerating on the pad wouldn't work would it ?
 
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Famine
You'd need to also Share the replay file in order to do that. Simply saving it makes a local copy only - but that'd be enough to record from.


All you'd need to do to see the full HUD is enable the full HUD in the replay. The view doesn't matter.
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Ok I've done that today - how do I get the details of the replay to you ?

It was a doozy today. The car initially went down to about 100, then 80, then eventually the pedals wouldnt interact with the car whatsoever. At the start of lap 3 it was acting very erratically, going up to 29mph and flickering there. As soon as I use the control pad I had full speed.
I then did another race immediately after using a petrol car - zero problems.
 
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN WE HAVE THE ANSWER

... I've sussed out WHAT is causing it, but WHY is still beyond me.

It's my transducer/basskicker that is under the pedal board that is causing it (I believe)

As soon as I turn off my basskickers - the car immediately works exactly as it should.
I turn them back on and I lose power after a few minutes of driving.

So either the heat from the transducer is interfering, all the magnetic signal from it is causing it.

However why this should only happen on the electric cars in the game I have absolutely no idea.
 
scottinwales
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN WE HAVE THE ANSWER

... I've sussed out WHAT is causing it, but WHY is still beyond me.

It's my transducer/basskicker that is under the pedal board that is causing it (I believe)

As soon as I turn off my basskickers - the car immediately works exactly as it should.
I turn them back on and I lose power after a few minutes of driving.

So either the heat from the transducer is interfering, all the magnetic signal from it is causing it.

However why this should only happen on the electric cars in the game I have absolutely no idea.
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Your brake is on. The electric cars cut the power when the brake is on. ICE cars will power through it but they will be slower on the straight.

Gran Turismo™ 7_20240313210920.jpg
 
scottinwales
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN WE HAVE THE ANSWER

... I've sussed out WHAT is causing it, but WHY is still beyond me.

It's my transducer/basskicker that is under the pedal board that is causing it (I believe)

As soon as I turn off my basskickers - the car immediately works exactly as it should.
I turn them back on and I lose power after a few minutes of driving.

So either the heat from the transducer is interfering, all the magnetic signal from it is causing it.

However why this should only happen on the electric cars in the game I have absolutely no idea.
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Glad you found the cause! Can't figure out why this is happening, it's mind-blowing
 
daan
Magnets. Speakers contain magnets. Hall effect sensors in pedals contain magnets.
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Yeh but why does it only affect the electric cars in game?

Must be something to do with the way they process the signal.

daan
Your brake is on. The electric cars cut the power when the brake is on. ICE cars will power through it but they will be slower on the straight.

View attachment 1336733
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You could be right but initially it lowers my speed and then eventually kills it.
So at the point it's lowering it then clearly the car is handling it.
It's so weirdly inconsistent
 
scottinwales
You could be right but initially it lowers my speed and then eventually kills it.
So at the point it's lowering it then clearly the car is handling it.
It's so weirdly inconsistent
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Take an ICE car (that's not limited by gearing) to SSRX. Note its top speed. Repeat with the buttkicker off. What's the difference?

Or just drive it in 3rd person view and see if the brake lights are on.
 
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daan
Take an ICE car (that's not limited by gearing) to SSRX. Note its top speed. Repeat with the buttkicker off. What's the difference?

Or just drive it in 3rd person view and see if the brake lights are on.
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Great idea. I'll do that thanks.
 
I think, I had this problem already.
In my case the minimum level of the brake pedal was set too high (don't know why). I was able to drive just because of the rolling start but wasn't able to go on after a crash. Then the car came to stop. Because throttle input doesn't work if you resp. your pedal is in brake modus.
 
Is it related to the amount of 'sound' output the basskicker is producing? Electric cars are obviously near silent, so that's a difference in theory.
 
Eunos_Cosmo
Is it related to the amount of 'sound' output the basskicker is producing? Electric cars are obviously near silent, so that's a difference in theory.
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I don't think the game would be detecting re life sounds and translating it back into the game.

MUC76
I think, I had this problem already.
In my case the minimum level of the brake pedal was set too high (don't know why). I was able to drive just because of the rolling start but wasn't able to go on after a crash. Then the car came to stop. Because throttle input doesn't work if you resp. your pedal is in brake modus.
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I did check that but all levels are set at 0-100.
 
daan
Take an ICE car (that's not limited by gearing) to SSRX. Note its top speed. Repeat with the buttkicker off. What's the difference?

Or just drive it in 3rd person view and see if the brake lights are on.
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Just gave that a go - definitely no brakes on.
Interestingly though, the EV Porsches didnt lose power on that track either.
So it's almost like it needs certain frequencies through the basskicker to cause the problems, maybe the collision frequencies, or the road rumbles or the braking - none of which you get at SSRX.

I could go to the effort of narrowing down which ones are causing the problem but I think I'm going to start by putting the transducer further away from the processing unit of the pedals and see if that solves the issue.
 

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