The biking thread

Some weird stuff has been going on with my bikes' brakes lately. Some combinations work, others don't, and there's no logic to it. Boring experiment results incoming.

When I built the fatbike I bought brand new Shimano RT66 rotors for it, I've had a pair (which we'll return to later) for more than a decade and they're known to be good. The actual brakes were old but freshly serviced M675 SLXs with their original resin pads, and it just didn't decelerate like it should. Even the first generation servo wave Shimanos feel like dropping the anchor when everything works but in this case something certainly didn't. Very low braking power and horrible squealing to add to the mix.

The next thing to try was a full set of used but barely worn sintered pads, just about nothing changed. Still very little power, sounding like someone is being tortured, and overall an abysmal performance. I figured that there must be something wrong with the brakes themselves and ordered a set of new M6100 Deores, my daily beater has those and they have an ergonomic advantage with the I-Spec shifter so they were a good choice.

Yet, with the new brakes and obviously new pads fitted... still the same situation. Logically thinking the rotors were the only thing that could make a difference anymore so I went looking for the old RT66s, noticing a small difference when at it. The old ones have sharp edges everywhere, looking like laser cut or something, but the new ones have all the edges rounded. Machined like that or nowadays made by stamping, no idea. It may be simply because at one point there was the huge panic of rotors just about decapitating people in crashes or at least that's how it was made to sound like.

The rotors indeed were the culprit as I put the old ones on and the problems immediately disappeared. Proper biting power and no squealing so it's pretty clear that the rotors just don't work, but this is where things get weird. I mounted the problem pair on my daily beater and set off with the intention of either crashing on the first corner with no brakes or getting some experience about what's wrong. Admittedly the first braking felt a bit soft but on the second one everything was fine, and has been since.

The only explanation I can come up with is that the rotors had to be broken in somehow, even though I've never heard of such a thing. Pads, yes, but not rotors. Until now they've always been ridden in pretty cold conditions and low speeds as the fatty just crawls forward so perhaps there's some truth to it, now it was a relatively warm day and I hit the brakes hard from 30+ km/h on tarmac which puts a whole different level of stress on them. Either that, no idea really, or they just didn't work with any of the previous pads but happened to be a good match with these ones. I don't know what the pads are actually, they may be stock M6100 equipment or they may not as the entire brakes originate from my Chisel and it wouldn't be unheard of to have non-standard OEM pads fitted on what is basically a club level racer. Got to check them some day.
 
Sometimes rotors have a anti-corrosion film or coating that needs to be worn away first. Never heard of that for bikes, but it's possible. It's also possible that they were just contaminated with some kind of oil or something.
 
I'm loving the turbo vado. They advertise it as "4x you" when it's in turbo mode and that's what it feels like. Its not overtly e. With my older e bike, you could feel the power, particularly starting off, or putting it in sport mode, where it felt practically like a moped.

I normally leave the turbo vado on tour mode where its probably 2x me and it feels great. It feels like me, on a good day, when I was 20, with a tailwind. If it wasn't for the slight whine of the motor, you wouldn't really know its an ebike. The fact it doesn't have a screen helps with that too.
 
So I stopped by the recycle shop today on the hunt for a stem. I wanted an 80mm but all they had was 100 - some old specialized one. So knowing that my seat is slammed all the way back now with the 50mm, and still cramped, I figure the 100mm would probably work. Came home and put it on, and moved the saddle to the mid point on the rails, and its just about perfect. Another bonus is that the handling feels a little more substantial now...not a nervous wreck.

The other thing I did was admitted that the 1x drive train is just not the right setup for this bike and I threw on my GRX 11 speed cassette. Mostly to see if it would fit, and it does. Now my dilemma...is there a flat-bar shifter & derailleur setup that will work with this 11 speed cassette? Anyone have an idea? It seems like the GRX cassette is basically spaced out like a road cassette, and most 11 speed compatible flat bar controls would be for mountain bike cassettes - I think. Anyone?

edit: I'm tempted to just get a 9 speed Shimano CUES setup. https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-CUES-U4000-9-SPEED-KIT

edit: Ordered a 9 speed Microshift Advent setup. Should be just about right for this commuter with some trail use setup. 30 x 46 is gonna be my most aggressive low gear of any bike I own!
 
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Now my dilemma...is there a flat-bar shifter & derailleur setup that will work with this 11 speed cassette? Anyone have an idea? It seems like the GRX cassette is basically spaced out like a road cassette, and most 11 speed compatible flat bar controls would be for mountain bike cassettes - I think. Anyone?
Putting this here in case someone else is wondering the same. Don't be surprised that I have the answer... :P as far as I know, all 11s Shimano cassettes have the same cog spacing so you can mix them. The main difference is that "traditional" narrow range road cassettes don't fit on a MTB hub as they're wider due to not being able to have the largest sprocket flanged over the spokes. Gravel and MTB cassettes on the other hand do fit, as you've found out.

In fact, even the 12s systems are compatible, not perfect but good enough to not be noticable. I have an Ultegra cassette on mine combined to a normal XT shifter and derailleur, the road cassette is something like half a millimeter wider in overall width so it makes some very slight rubbing noise in the first gear but still shifts flawlessly.
 
Putting this here in case someone else is wondering the same. Don't be surprised that I have the answer... :P as far as I know, all 11s Shimano cassettes have the same cog spacing so you can mix them. The main difference is that "traditional" narrow range road cassettes don't fit on a MTB hub as they're wider due to not being able to have the largest sprocket flanged over the spokes. Gravel and MTB cassettes on the other hand do fit, as you've found out.

In fact, even the 12s systems are compatible, not perfect but good enough to not be noticable. I have an Ultegra cassette on mine combined to a normal XT shifter and derailleur, the road cassette is something like half a millimeter wider in overall width so it makes some very slight rubbing noise in the first gear but still shifts flawlessly.
The guy at the shop was saying that since road & mountain shifters have different cable pull, they are not compatible when mixing road & mountain cassettes. I'm not sure I buy that, particularly if the cog spacing is the same as you noted. I ended up getting the Microshift because all in, including the chain, cassette, shifter, and derailleur was just over $100 - I don't think I could have cobbled something together for less than that. We'll see how it works.

edit: It looks like the Shimano 11 speed road/gravel cassettes broke the compatibility as they use a longer free hub body (HG36 vs HG35 on 10 speed road/MTB) However...I put my 11 speed SLX cassette on these wheels, and it seemed to fit.
 
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The guy at the shop was saying that since road & mountain shifters have different cable pull, they are not compatible when mixing road & mountain cassettes. I'm not sure I buy that, particularly if the cog spacing is the same as you noted.
He was right in saying that, the shifters indeed do have different pull ratios, but it only means you can't mix MTB shifters with road derailleurs or vice versa. As long as you have a matching shifter/derailleur pair it doesn't matter if the cassette is MTB or road, in fact the GRX cassette is "technically" a MTB part to begin with but sold for use with road shifting hardware.

The road/gravel cassettes are wider, correct, and the reason your 11s SLX fits a MTB hub because it is, well, not a road or gravel cassette. The MTB cassettes can use the old standard as they're built with the narrow mounting surface and the largest sprocket is dished over the spokes.
 
It kinda drives me crazy that bike standards don't have better nomenclature. A Shimano 10 speed hub fits anything from 7 to 11 speed...except road 11 speed. It's needlessly nebulous. Just give me the damn dimensions of the splines, in MM, and the type, and then for cassettes give me the type and hub dimensions its compatible with - like below:

Hub:
O.L.D.: 142mm
Axle: 12mm
Splines: 35mm HG type

Cassette:
Number of gears: 11
Spline compatibility: 35mm, HG type; 36.8mm, HG type with spacer
Cog spacing: #mm

You could quickly and at a glance look at that and see if something is compatible without searching through compatibility tables and all that nonsense.

I actually don't know what to expect with the 9 speed Microshift setup in terms of how the cassette will look, dimensionally speaking. If it fits on the same freehub body as my 11 speed, it either must have a stack of spacers or the cog spacing is different.
 
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I actually don't know what to expect with the 9 speed Microshift setup in terms of how the cassette will look, dimensionally speaking. If it fits on the same freehub body as my 11 speed, it either must have a stack of spacers or the cog spacing is different.
The same overall width as a 10 speed, thicker sprockets and spacers between them. No extra spacers.

Once upon a time, there was the 7 speed. Then one gear was added, with the same width and spacing, to create the 8 speed. That's the last time the overall cassette width was changed, nowadays a 7 speed is run with a bunch of spacers to fill the width of the freehub. When 9 speed came along everything was just thinned to cram nine gears into the space formerly occupied by eight, and the same happened with the 10 speed.

And then it gets interesting. The Shimano MTB 11 speeds still fit the old HG freehub, as do some SRAM 12 speeds - the SX and NX groupsets don't use the XD freehub originally introduced with the high end 11 speed cassettes, they indeed have 12 speeds on the old HG standard. Shimano 12 speeds introduced the Microspline that is basically an evolution of the HG, apparently to reduce the cassette gouging the splines. Not compatible with anything else, at least at the time of writing.

Road 11 speeds always need a wider hub but 12 speeds again cause extra havoc with Shimano making them backwards compatible with the 11 speed hub (my Frankenbike has a 11 speed hub with the 12 speed Ultegra cassette) and a slightly revised 12 speed exclusive hub available with twice the amount of splines but SRAM introduced a new XDR standard that allows for the same 10T smallest sprocket as the XD MTB parts while having enough width to accommodate them.

On top of that there's the Shimano spacer mess. On a HG hub with a 7/8/9 speed there are no extra spacers (other than those supplied with the 7 speed nowadays) needed. When using a 10 speed MTB cassette, no spacers. When using a 10 speed road cassette, one 1 mm (I think) spacer that is supplied with it. (Note: Shimano only, not needed with a SRAM road cassette.) When using a 11 speed MTB cassette, no spacers. And the 11 speed road cassette simply won't fit. BUT, on a 11 speed road hub it's possible to use them all but everything that isn't an actual 11 speed road cassette needs an extra 1,85 mm spacer in addition to what's used on a HG hub.

It all sounds confusing but in the end it's not THAT bad... or then I've just done this too much to see the forest from the trees.
 
New bike day, 2024 Factor Ostro VAM with 120mm/380mm one piece bar and stem. Well, at least new frameset and handlebars day, going to build this up with Ultegra Di2 and the Roval Rapide CL II wheels I have already
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Of all the bike mechanic lessons I've learned, installing a drivetrain has, so far, been the most infuriating. Installing the cassette, derailleur, and shifter were all pieces of cake. But my god, dealing with the shifter cable housing...without the right tools...had me seeing red. Having used a pair of decent (but not bike specific) wire cutters on other types of housing (such as for my dropper post) I expected it to be a cinch...but the stuff the bike shop sold me (Jagwire) was absurdly tough. I was putting my entire body weight on the handles of the cutters and they were just denting the housing. So I broke out my hack saw...that wouldn't go through it either. Then I got my dremmel with cutoff wheel and that did the trick. The problem with that is that it melted down the inner and outer sheath of the housing and it ended up fraying the cable, when I tried to run it through, to the point of no return. I gave up and brought it to my LBS where I'm sure they're gonna charge me like $150 to put in a new cable and do the routing. Why the **** does the cable housing need to be that overbuilt? :banghead::mad:
 
I gave up and brought it to my LBS where I'm sure they're gonna charge me like $150 to put in a new cable and do the routing
If it's anywhere near that price buy yourself some good cutters so in the future, you are good to go.

From memory they are the only bike specific tool I've ever bought as I didn't want to risk ruining my actual cable cutters (electrical) and they were worth it. I simply refuse to pay a bike mechanic anything, there is nothing on a bike that warrants it as far as I'm concerned.
 
Of all the bike mechanic lessons I've learned, installing a drivetrain has, so far, been the most infuriating. Installing the cassette, derailleur, and shifter were all pieces of cake. But my god, dealing with the shifter cable housing...without the right tools...had me seeing red. Having used a pair of decent (but not bike specific) wire cutters on other types of housing (such as for my dropper post) I expected it to be a cinch...but the stuff the bike shop sold me (Jagwire) was absurdly tough. I was putting my entire body weight on the handles of the cutters and they were just denting the housing. So I broke out my hack saw...that wouldn't go through it either. Then I got my dremmel with cutoff wheel and that did the trick. The problem with that is that it melted down the inner and outer sheath of the housing and it ended up fraying the cable, when I tried to run it through, to the point of no return. I gave up and brought it to my LBS where I'm sure they're gonna charge me like $150 to put in a new cable and do the routing. Why the **** does the cable housing need to be that overbuilt? :banghead::mad:
Hey, look, someone just like me! :lol: You need to get the Knipex 95 62 190 Wire Rope Cutter

9561190_5.jpg


It's specifically designed to go through braided cable and also functions as a crimper. It's perfect for bikes. Wire cutters are for solid cable and most of the time will squeeze and spread out the strands before cutting them. The jaws on these gather them into a tighter-and-tighter bundle before cleanly guillotining them. Most good brake housing is compressionless, so they have a ton of cable braids running longitudinally with the cable and it's a massive pain to cut with regular nippers/shears. The knipex go through like butter.
 
Talking of awful jobs to do at home - started building the Factor over the weekend and the internal cable routing through the headset, stem and bars was a nightmare.

Not only does the rear hose interfere with steerer unless in the exact right place the exit hole on the underside of the handlebar is barely 1mm larger in diameter than the brake hose. Fishing it through with string as is suggested didn’t work as it added too much bulk. Got it through in the end using a 1mm hex key as a pick and patiently pushing slightly bent hoses through the bars.

Took me 2h to run the cables and nearly had me taking it to the LBS too…

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Talking of awful jobs to do at home - started building the Factor over the weekend and the internal cable routing through the headset, stem and bars was a nightmare.

Not only does the rear hose interfere with steerer unless in the exact right place the exit hole on the underside of the handlebar is barely 1mm larger in diameter than the brake hose. Fishing it through with string as is suggested didn’t work as it added too much bulk. Got it through in the end using a 1mm hex key as a pick and patiently pushing slightly bent hoses through the bars.

Took me 2h to run the cables and nearly had me taking it to the LBS too…

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I was actually thinking, while making a squash dinner of my own setup - the only way this could be worse is if I had to internally route these stupid cables. :lol:

You're making me want a new road bike. I love my CAAD12 but it's been feeling rather...creaky lately. I think the BB needs to be replaced.
 
Talking of awful jobs to do at home - started building the Factor over the weekend and the internal cable routing through the headset, stem and bars was a nightmare.

Not only does the rear hose interfere with steerer unless in the exact right place the exit hole on the underside of the handlebar is barely 1mm larger in diameter than the brake hose. Fishing it through with string as is suggested didn’t work as it added too much bulk. Got it through in the end using a 1mm hex key as a pick and patiently pushing slightly bent hoses through the bars.

Took me 2h to run the cables and nearly had me taking it to the LBS too…

View attachment 1353540View attachment 1353541
Well, it is Absolute Cack as Hambini would say. ;)
 
Black Inc this time thankfully, Factors internal finishing kit brand. Thankfully not Absolute Black but I did have to double check when I was researching.

@Eunos_Cosmo n+1, remember.
Ah, never occurred to me that they were separate. That's a relief. Black is the new cycling taboo color haha
 
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