Drag Tuning Guide For Various Cars

Which helped you tune your GTR Black Edition most?

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nascarfan657

nascarfan657

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nascarfan657
Ok it's been a while since I posted anything on gt planet. I was sick with mono. But i'm back and starting off by giving you a guide to tuning your Nissan GTR Black Edition. Make sure that you buy all upgrades and change oil, to get 1,121hp

Suspension: When you are tuning your suspension, you need to remember that most changes to it will affect various factors such as traction, aerodynamics, etc. A good start is to put your ride height lowest to the front and highest to the rear, but toy around with the hight as there might be a better aerodynamic combination. Spring rate should be close to max for both front and rear, but max spring rate works fine too. I have found that toying around with the spring rate has squeezed out a slightly better launch than a max spring rate. Dampers play a big role, so my recommendation is 1 in the front for both extension and compression, and 10 in the rear for both extension and compression. It is wise to toy around with these, as dampers have a great effect on your car's performance. Antiroll bars are not a big factor(I just left mine alone) but you can toy around with them nevertheless. Toe and Camber should always be 0 as the car is AWD and you want the most traction possible.

Transmission: Your GTR's transmission is by far the biggest factor in a good tune(same goes for any car) and it is very important that you find a transmission tune that gives you good launch and good pull. In my experience, I have found that the Black Edition's transmission tuning can be a real pain, as getting the pull you want requires you to give up the launch you are looking for(i'll explain why shortly). Your best starting final gear is between 3.500 and 3.600, as this range gives you great pull in your run. Remember to put your speed all the way down. Some good initial gears are 3.537, 3.568, 3.584, etc. But here is the reason why the transmission tuning is a pain: Your 1st gear. Yep. The first gear has given me so much trouble as it has given others. The problem with having this final gear range is that with first gear being all the way to the left, you get a slight turbo lag which can five the illusion that you have traction control enabled(most evident in higher initial final gears). To get a better launch, move your 1st gear left but not all the way. The more the 1st gear is away from all the way left, the better the launch will be. But this creates another issue. There will be a harder, more sloppy shift into 2nd gear which can slow you down as well. If you plan to continue to leave 2nd gear alone, find a first gear that has a better launch with minimal impact on shifting into 2nd gear. For example, try these ranges(in clicks) as you move your first gear off of all the way to the left: 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 clicks and so on. Remember this rule: Further the 1st gear is to the right, the better the launch but more interference on shifting into second gear. Below are some questions you should ask yourself:

1st gear: How much away from all the way to the left should it be?
2nd gear: Should it be moved evenly with first gear or do you leave it alone?
3rd gear: Should it be moved to it's normal position or further right with 1st and 2nd gear?
4th gear: Should it be a few clicks off the right side or furthest right?
5th gear: Normal*
6th gear: Normal*

*Normal means put it to where it would normally go.
Once you have your ratios, set your final gear all the way to 2.500.

Drivetrain: For maximum traction, set your LSD to 60, 60, 5 for both front and back. Your differential in torque should be 45, 55(can toy around with it a bit).

Body: It is best if you remove your rear wing to get the least amount of downforce as possible.

Hope this helps!
 
JDmsz
Nobody never has trouble tuning a gtr because its the easiest car to tune. That's why everybody has one. But good post you put up for the beginners...
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Everyone can tune a car, but not everyone can make it fast. Ran a few people last night using '12s in my '07 Black mask and sure enough only one in the room was able to pull on it. Difference is what, nearly 90 horsepower? That's pretty significant.
 
JDmsz
Nobody never has trouble tuning a gtr because its the easiest car to tune. That's why everybody has one. But good post you put up for the beginners...
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Yeah I know but GT Planet is pretty much haveing experienced players make guides to help out players that are new. I just noticed how bad the launch was and thought I'd help out other players with simeler problems. I might even work out a good base tune to give these new people a good start.
 
Ok so I can't sleep tonight for some reason so I thought I would type out a guide for tuning your Ferrari FXX. Make sure to change your oil and fully upgrade it to get the best performance out of it. Note that the car itself is pricey, it will suck 2,000,000 credits out of your wallet plus about an extra 200,000 credits for upgrades(extra 100,000) for nos(but chances are you knew that already lol). Even though its pricey, with the right tune, it's a 4wd killer with a trap at about 180mph.

Suspension: Your suspension tune is critical as you want a solid launch when you gun that accelerator so hard it falls right through the floor. Toy around with your suspension to get the best you can out of that somewhat sexy looking ferarri that's a laddies magnet. To start off, you should have your ride height lowest at the front and highest at the rear. For extension on dampers it is 2/9 and compression is 1/10(toy with it I can't stress this enough) Antiroll bars are not a big factor so you can leave them alone. Toy with your camber and toe as the FXX is not a 4wd car. Crank out that perfect launch with amazing pull so you leave other competitors scratching their heads thinking "What the hell just happened?"

Transmission: Your transmission plays a big role in getting the ability to make a gtr or even a zzll look like grandma's station wagon. A 2nd gear launch is recommended for this car. Choose a final gear around 3.000(trust me). 1st gear is all the way to the left without a question. 2nd gear should be moved a bit left as you are using 2nd gear launch. 3rd gear should be about 3/4ths to the right. 4th gear should be a few clicks(about 5 or so) from the right. 5&6th gears are all the way to the right. Here is a good base tune guide based off of a YouTube video made by racingforlife132:
Initial final gear: 3.000 max speed all the way down
1st gear: all the way left
2nd gear: about 30 clicks left
3rd gear: around 3/4ths to the right
4th gear: 4 or 5 clicks off right
5th & 6th gears: Max right
Bring final gear all the way down to 2.500. With this tranny guide, buying new gas pedals and reparing your floor will mean something as you will fly by the finish line with a trap of about 180mph.

Drivetrain: Your LSD should be at 60/60/5 so you can take off at the start of the drag in a cloud of smoke which grabs the interest of fans that love to see burnouts.

Body: Really nothing to do exept to buy all weight reduction upgrades.

Hope this helps!
 
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Ok I'm working on a tune for the zzll and hope to have a tuning guide for it up later. Meanwhile I have a few tips for those people tuning a Nissan GTT SpecV '09. (Hp 1,078 with oil change and upgrades; correct me if im wrong on the max hp)Tuning the car is not that different then tuning a GTR Black Edition, but the decrease in hp and increase in weight(huh, I said that like the SpecV came out after the black edition in a way) causes you to have a slightly shorter tranny then that of a black edition(if you need a guide for the black edition, see the top of the page). You probably want to start off with a final gear at 3.450 as a good base. Your first gear should be furthest left(as it does not have the "Lag Launch" the black edition has). 2nd gear you can just leave it where it is but you can toy with the ratios abit. 3rd gear should be around 3/4ths to the right but it can be toyed with. 4th gear should be a few clicks off of the right but may be best if it varies based off your 3rd gear in order to restore the fundamental equalities of the universe. Ok, not really, but you should know what I mean. If not, feel free to ask as analogys can be confusing(believe me). 5th & 6th gears should be all the way to the right. Well I might as well give out the rest of this base guide for the Nissan GTR SpecV '09 because it is easier than scrolling all the way back up to the top to get the rest.

Suspension: Your suspension should be the same as that of a black edition( I mean same way of tuning not exactly the same numbers) with ride height lowest at the front and highest at the rear but this can be toyed with according to your prefrences( in suspension tuning and not in life as it would not be a great idea to toy with your suspension based off the fact that you love puppies). Spring rate should be at max front and max rear. Dampers should be 1, 10 for extension and compression( toy with it) Antiroll bars can be left alone and camber and toe should be 0 for both front and back.

Drivetrain: LSD should be 60,60,5 for front and rear and your torque sensing differential should be 45,55.

Body: remove your rear wing for the least amount of downforce as possible.
One more thing, if you do ghost replays and somehow you find a tune that run's faster than your black edition ghost, slap that tune on your black edition and see how it runs.
Hope this helps!
 
nascarfan657
Ok I'm working on a tune for the zzll and hope to have a tuning guide for it up later. Meanwhile I have a few tips for those people tuning a Nissan GTT SpecV '09. (Hp 1,078 with oil change and upgrades; correct me if im wrong on the max hp)Tuning the car is not that different then tuning a GTR Black Edition, but the decrease in hp and increase in weight(huh, I said that like the SpecV came out after the black edition in a way) causes you to have a slightly shorter tranny then that of a black edition(if you need a guide for the black edition, see the top of the page). You probably want to start off with a final gear at 3.450 as a good base. Your first gear should be furthest left(as it does not have the "Lag Launch" the black edition has). 2nd gear you can just leave it where it is but you can toy with the ratios abit. 3rd gear should be around 3/4ths to the right but it can be toyed with. 4th gear should be a few clicks off of the right but may be best if it varies based off your 3rd gear in order to restore the fundamental equalities of the universe. Ok, not really, but you should know what I mean. If not, feel free to ask as analogys can be confusing(believe me). 5th & 6th gears should be all the way to the right. Well I might as well give out the rest of this base guide for the Nissan GTR SpecV '09 because it is easier than scrolling all the way back up to the top to get the rest.

Suspension: Your suspension should be the same as that of a black edition( I mean same way of tuning not exactly the same numbers) with ride height lowest at the front and highest at the rear but this can be toyed with according to your prefrences( in suspension tuning and not in life as it would not be a great idea to toy with your suspension based off the fact that you love puppies). Spring rate should be at max front and max rear. Dampers should be 1, 10 for extension and compression( toy with it) Antiroll bars can be left alone and camber and toe should be 0 for both front and back.

Drivetrain: LSD should be 60,60,5 for front and rear and your torque sensing differential should be 45,55.

Body: remove your rear wing for the least amount of downforce as possible.
One more thing, if you do ghost replays and somehow you find a tune that run's faster than your black edition ghost, slap that tune on your black edition and see how it runs.
Hope this helps!
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Just one thing to point out, having the stock wing vs no wing at all is exactly the same the Spec V will still get 20 downforce in the front and back that's just the way it is now because PD had to go and ruin a bunch of cars with excessive amounts downforce. Other than that, the moral of this post is "toy with it" lol.
 
Shells N Cheese
Just one thing to point out, having the stock wing vs no wing at all is exactly the same the Spec V will still get 20 downforce in the front and back that's just the way it is now because PD had to go and ruin a bunch of cars with excessive amounts downforce. Other than that, the moral of this post is "toy with it" lol.
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Lol I have an analogy for ya. Fiddling with something can fix it and make it better. But if you fiddle with something long enough, you will break it.
 
nascarfan657
Lol I have an analogy for ya. Fiddling with something can fix it and make it better. But if you fiddle with something long enough, you will break it.
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Not bad lol, but the true question is, how do you know it's broken if it was never broken before? LOL.
 
So here it is, a guide for tuning your TommyKararia ZZll. One of the most dominant AWD cars in GT6, with 967 hp and weighing about 350kg less than a Black Edition. As usual, buy all upgrades and change oil for max performance.

Suspension: You want a suspension that offers a great launch, so here is a good suspension to start out with.Remember to play with the suspension as this one is not perfect. Ride height lowest at front and highest at rear. Spring rate is max for both front and rear but play with it to get a sexy launch. Dampers are 2,9 for extension and 1,10 for compresion( Do you see the idea? Think about what you see for the dampers). Antiroll bars are non esental, so just leave them alone. Camber and toe are 0 all around.

Transmission: You want to start off with a final gear between 3.3 and 3.4. First gear should be all the way left, 2nd should stay where it is. 3rd gear should be about 3/4ths to the right. 4th gear should be a few clicks off of the right. 5th & 6th should be furthest right.bring final gear all the way down to 2.500. This transmission not only offers good pull but, with the effect of a quick shift into 2nd gear and a good suspension, will give this car a crazy launch. Toy with the ratios and your zzll will be a force to be reckoned with.

Drivetrain: Your LSD should be 60,60,5 for both front and back, and your torque different should be 45,55.

Body, buy all weight reduction upgrades.

Hope this helps.
 
Real quick, try minimum ride height in the front and rear for awd cars, and max in both in rwd, be mindful of where the engine is and how much you want to pivot the weight to the back, too much and you hurt your launch, too little and no pull. Another thing, some rwd cars can work real well with 0 camber and toe the acr im posting soon will not have camber or toe
 
ZZII has 962hp by the way. I find that a few 4WD cars prefer max/max on ride height, maybe it's just the way I tune but there are a few out there that I have max/max on and others have min/min. As for that camber and toe angle thing, I rarely used camber on any of my drag cars and I never run toe in the back, so far I haven't had any issues but I have been wanting to start messing around with the rear toe a bit on my Enzo.
 
ArticTrust
Real quick, try minimum ride height in the front and rear for awd cars, and max in both in rwd, be mindful of where the engine is and how much you want to pivot the weight to the back, too much and you hurt your launch, too little and no pull. Another thing, some rwd cars can work real well with 0 camber and toe the acr im posting soon will not have camber or toe
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Just about any ride height can work on awd's depending on the tune.
A select few awd's ( mostly very low HP ) actually perform best with max/max ride height. ( not surprisingly this was applicable in GT5 as well )

As for the ZZ2. My preference is min/max.
This generally gives a slightly better 0-60, which is crucial for this car due to its relatively poor launch compared to GTR's.

Camber up front hasn't changed in GT6 as far as I'm concerned.
Cars were marginally quicker with it in GT5 and I sincerely doubt those lazy so & so's altered it for this installment.
But much like GT5 the difference online simply isn't noticeable. Pretty sure it was only good for around .003 in GT5 and I guarantee you, visually, you would never see the difference online and definitively say that it came from camber alone.

I keep hearing this nonsense about no rear toe for RWD's in GT6.
Anyone that has thoroughly tuned something like a Diablo GT2 will tell you.... Toe angles are still alive and well in this game.
 
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Shells N Cheese
ZZII has 962hp by the way. I find that a few 4WD cars prefer max/max on ride height, maybe it's just the way I tune but there are a few out there that I have max/max on and others have min/min. As for that camber and toe angle thing, I rarely used camber on any of my drag cars and I never run toe in the back, so far I haven't had any issues but I have been wanting to start messing around with the rear toe a bit on my Enzo.
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Oops. Thanks for the correction .
 
chris12008
what you meant to say is if it's not broken then don't try to fix it ;)
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Yes and no. Yes because you can break it. But what about the part where the analogy says "Fiddling with something can fix it and make it better." I know what you mean. What you said is also a good model to live by.
 
Just a tip for you nascar , the lsd really does not make any difference in drag , as far as i know, and the only way toe helps if it is on the front that is for only Rwd cars , FF would be the other way around , leaving awd that does not need toe or camber angle. this is my way.
 
Guys just an quick update. I'm Working on good tuning guides for the Mitsubishi Evo. Vl and the mclaren mp4. They should be out by Friday or so. Also a quick question. What do you think is the best rear wheel drive drag car?
 

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